Sesame-Brown Butter Udon Noodles

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook according to package directions until just tender.

Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then add the spinach and press to submerge. (It will continue cooking later.) Drain the noodles and spinach, shaking to get rid of any excess water.

Set the pot over medium heat. Add 5 tablespoons butter and cook, stirring occasionally, until the foam subsides, the milk solids turn golden-brown and it smells nutty and toasty, 3 to 4 minutes.

Add the black pepper and stir until fragrant.

Add 1/4 cup pasta water, plus the noodles and spinach, soy sauce and sugar, and toss until the sauce is thickened and silky.

Add pasta water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the sauce clings to the noodles.

Remove from heat, add the sesame seeds and stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon butter until melted.

Season to taste with more soy sauce and black pepper (if mild) and sugar (if too salty).

Serve with more sesame seeds on top.